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Food — Restaurants

Shiso leaf threads through Kei’s Japanese lineage and contemporary vision

Paris, France

The delicate herb connects Chef Yonemitsu to his heritage, its verdant notes of mint and citrus woven seamlessly across a cuisine that honours tradition while reaching toward something entirely new.

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Shiso leaves, their green surface glistening, against the refined plating of a dish at Restaurant Kei
Restaurant Kei (@restaurantkei)

Shiso arrives on the plate as something quietly insistent: a whisper of green, those minty and citrus notes barely announcing themselves before they reshape what comes next. At Restaurant Kei, this humble Japanese leaf performs a more profound duty than flavouring alone. It is Chef Yonemitsu’s connection to the soil and sensibility of his origins, a botanical thread running through a kitchen where heritage and contemporary thought move forward together.

The herb’s presence carries weight precisely because it does not announce itself. Its vegetal character, subtly mentholated and touched with the brightness of citrus, finds its place not through force but through natural kinship with the dishes that surround it. In the hands of a chef committed to both respecting Japanese fundamentals and pushing beyond them, shiso becomes a quiet declaration: that innovation need not distance itself from where we come from.

The leaf appears across the tasting menus at Restaurant Kei’s intimate Paris address, each application considered rather than reflexive. Between techniques honed in contemporary kitchens and the clarity of traditional Japanese approach, shiso sits not as garnish but as philosophy. It reminds diners that the most sophisticated cuisine often emerges when a chef knows precisely which traditions to honour and which boundaries to gently dissolve.

Imagery courtesy of Restaurant Kei (@restaurantkei).

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