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Food — Restaurants

Chef Marlene’s squid transforms Portuguese tradition into refined theatre

Lisbon, Portugal

At Marlene, the Azorean squid with feijoada and chouriço writes a quiet love letter to Atlantic fishing heritage, where beans and sausage meet the delicate intelligence of a chef who understands provenance.

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Azorean squid coiled in a white bowl, charred and glistening in golden cooking liquid with black pepper, set on warm wooden boards
Marlene (@marlene.restaurant)

Coiled in a white bowl with the precision of an artist’s hand, Chef Marlene’s Azorean squid announces itself with dark, charred flesh that speaks of careful technique and respect for the ingredient. The tentacles curl in on themselves, tender and caramelised, arranged in a pool of golden cooking liquid that catches the light like amber. A whisper of coarse pepper dust shadows the surface, a gesture toward the intensity that Portuguese chouriço and feijoada bring to the plate.

This is not a plate dressed in spectacle. Rather, it is a meditation on the architecture of taste, where the Atlantic identity of the squid, harvested from the waters off the Azores, meets the familial warmth of a traditional Portuguese bean stew. The chouriço, that burnished sausage of smoked pork and paprika, anchors the dish in the country’s culinary memory. The feijoada, that slow, dark comfort of beans and time, provides both earthiness and soul.

Chef Marlene has built a quiet reputation on these kinds of conversations between ingredient and tradition. Her signature dish has already become known among the restaurant’s regular visitors, those who understand that the most sophisticated cooking often whispers rather than shouts. Each element here serves a purpose: the squid’s briny sweetness against the chouriço’s smoke, the bean stew’s mineral depth beneath it all, the careful balance of seasoning that suggests restraint rather than excess.

What makes this dish endure is not novelty but recognition. It tells the story of where squid lives, how it tastes best when treated with intention, and why Portuguese traditions persist because they are built on centuries of understanding. This is cooking that knows its place and its people.

Imagery courtesy of Marlene (@marlene.restaurant).

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