Erdem’s mid length pannier dress marks 20 years in overprinted jacquard
For its anniversary season, Erdem revisits the sculptural drama of the pannier silhouette, reimagined in a loop jacquard weave that moves between ink, rose and celestial blue. The collection frames two decades of dialogue through transformation.
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Titled The Imaginary Conversation, the Autumn Winter 2026 collection marks 20 years of ERDEM. This mid length pannier dress embodies the collection’s core gesture: not a return to the past, but a conversation across it. The sleeveless silhouette rises to a high neckline, its skirt deployed into those sculptural, side swung panniers that anchor the season’s dialogue between structure and romanticism.
The overprinted loop jacquard speaks in fractured colour: blues fade into purples, pinks emerge and recede, the pattern layered as if memories themselves were rendered in thread. Erdem Moralıoğlu revisited characters who had appeared throughout the house’s history, with garments transformed through new cuts, materials, and silhouettes. This dress belongs to that lineage of revision, its fabric speaking the language of the archive while the pannier volume announces something entirely contemporary.
The collection oscillates between sculptural hourglass tailoring and panniered volume. Skeletal pannier structures and ballooned skirts introduce a romantic theatricality. The dress moves with intention; its gathered volume catches light and shadow, transforming with each step. It is simultaneously baroque and modern, narrative and abstract.
The collection is now available at erdem.com and at the ERDEM stores on Sloane Street in Knightsbridge and South Audley Street in Mayfair.
Imagery courtesy of Erdem (@erdem).
