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Mame Kurogouchi layers sheer jacquard textures for autumn

The Japanese designer's FW26 collection explores the interplay of transparency and structure through a delicate mole knit vest and oversized floral jacquard shirt, both rendered in luminous white.

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A woman wearing a white oversized floral jacquard shirt layered over a sheer white mole knit vest and white trousers, standing beneath industrial metal scaffolding with flowering plants at her feet
Mame Kurogouchi (@mamekurogouchi)

Mame Kurogouchi’s approach to layering has always resisted the obvious. For her FW26 collection, the Tokyo designer distils this philosophy into two essential pieces that speak to her enduring interest in transparency, structure and the quiet sophistication that emerges when textiles converse rather than shout. A sheer jacquard mole knit vest sits beneath an oversized floral jacquard shirt, both rendered in a pristine white that allows the intricacy of each fabric to read distinctly against the other.

The mole knit, with its delicate dimensional quality, creates an almost architectural scaffold beneath the looser geometry of the shirt. The floral jacquard pattern emerges through this interplay of opacity and clarity, neither textile commanding attention but instead creating a visual rhythm that rewards close looking. The oversized proportion of the shirt allows it to move with ease, its hem falling generously past the hip, while the precision of the vest’s construction anchors the silhouette with understated refinement.

Shot in Tokyo by Sophie Isogai, the image captures these pieces in their natural habitat: against industrial scaffolding and weathered metal, with cascading flowers at ground level softening the urban geometry. White cotton and silk jacquards meet concrete and green light, a moment of poised elegance in an ordinary streetscape. This is Mame Kurogouchi’s consistent gift, to find in layered textiles and modest colour palettes a form of beauty that feels both contemporary and timeless.

Imagery courtesy of Mame Kurogouchi (@mamekurogouchi).

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