Homme Plissé Issey Miyake refines the silhouette for autumn winter

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake approaches the forthcoming autumn winter season with a collection built on the tension between geometry and ease. Slant Cargo and Refraction form the conceptual pillars of this collection, each exploring how the house’s foundational pleating technique responds to shifting proportions and visual perception.

The Slant Cargo pieces introduce asymmetry to the tailored silhouette, cutting across the conventional line of the jacket and trousers with a deliberate diagonal logic. A charcoal pleated shirt sits above a softened cream knit band, its horizontal pleats creating rhythm against the vertical grain of the trousers, which taper with purposeful angles. Pockets acquire new geometry, becoming sculptural elements rather than mere function. The palette moves through deep charcoals and near blacks, punctuated by terracotta brown at the cuffs and a cream accent that reads like light caught mid movement.

Refraction takes its name from how light bends through transparent surfaces. The collection considers how fabric might fragment and reassemble visual information, using the pleated textile as a prism. Each piece catches light differently depending on angle and movement, the standing pleats acting as thousands of small mirrors that dissolve and reform the silhouette as the wearer moves. A pleated shoulder bag in pale grey demonstrates this principle at smaller scale, its structured form suggesting both rigidity and fluidity.

Both collections speak to what Homme Plissé has always understood: that fabric need not simply drape the body, but can actively engage with it. The collection becomes available in November.

Imagery courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake (@hommeplisse_isseymiyake).