Aurelie Bidermann pairs polished gold with ceramic in Nazca rings and hoops

Aurelie Bidermann has expanded her Permanents line with the Nazca collection, a series of rings and hoops that pair polished gold with ceramic in sculptural configurations that feel both deliberate and organic. The two materials create a visual counterpoint that commands attention through proportion and balance rather than scale, each element knowing precisely where it should advance and where it should recede.

Aurelie Bidermann’s Nazca collection introduces polished 18-karat gold and hand-finished ceramic to her Permanents line, a series of rings and hoops where the two materials meet as equals rather than accent and setting. The designer, who established her Paris house in 2002, has spent two decades testing how contrasting surfaces perform together on the body. Nazca marks the moment ceramic becomes load-bearing in her work, no longer secondary flourish but primary structure, glazed in black or warm gold tones and individually crafted.

The rings show the principle most clearly. Gold curves around a ceramic band with visible precision: the ceramic sits smooth and full, almost architectural in its weight, while gold traces a polished line of reflection around it. The hoops extend this arrangement with greater generosity. Gold forms a broad, polished base while ceramic adds dimension above, the two building outward together. The black ceramic versions create sharp contrast against the metal’s warmth; the gold ceramic variants offer a quieter exchange, the two tones merging rather than competing.

What makes these pieces read as jewellery rather than decorative object is their refusal to add flourish without reason. The forms are bold and visibly present on the body, but they arrive at their shape through the logic of material and proportion: the ceramic is never thin or merely structural, the gold never disappears into a setting. Each piece is complete without apology.

Bidermann’s practice has always centred on the relationship between components. Earlier explorations paired silver with resin, resin with wood, testing how different weights and surfaces function together when worn. The Nazca collection deepens her ceramic vocabulary, moving the material from accent to essential element. This shift reflects a studio evolution in what constitutes jewellery’s primary vocabulary, a choice made visible in every piece.

The collection is available through Aurelie Bidermann’s official channels and selected stockists.

Aurelie Bidermann established her eponymous jewellery house in Paris in 2002, building a reputation for unconventional material pairings and sculptural forms that prioritise proportion over precious metal weight. Her Permanents line, from which Nazca emerges, focuses on pieces designed for repeated wear, jewellery that functions as both daily object and considered design. This philosophy of durability and material honesty informs every decision in the new collection.

The Nazca collection comprises rings and hoops in polished 18-karat gold paired with hand-finished ceramic. The ceramic components are glazed in black or warm gold tones, each piece individually crafted to ensure material consistency and surface quality. Prices and exact availability through stockists have not yet been publicly confirmed, though the collection is accessible through Aurelie Bidermann’s direct channels and her established network of specialist jewellery retailers across Europe and beyond.

Bidermann’s approach to material selection draws from her earlier explorations with silver, resin and wood, always testing how contrasting surfaces and weights perform together on the body. The Nazca collection marks a deepening of her ceramic practice, moving beyond accent elements to make ceramic substantial and load-bearing within each design. This shift reflects a broader evolution in her studio’s thinking about what constitutes jewellery’s primary material vocabulary.

Imagery courtesy of Aurélie Bidermann (@aureliebidermann).