Sparkenhoe Red Leicester XO: England’s Rarest Farmhouse Cheese

When Jo and David Clarke embarked upon their cheesemaking venture in 2005, they undertook an endeavour of considerable historical significance. Traditional farmhouse Red Leicester, that most quintessentially English of cheeses, had lain dormant for some fifty years, its craft and custodians all but forgotten. The Clarkes resolved to resurrect this venerable tradition, establishing their dairy in Leicestershire and drawing upon milk from their own meticulously maintained herd.

Their commitment to authenticity manifests in every element of their craft: the traditional clothbinding technique, the unhurried patience required for proper maturation, and the deliberate avoidance of pasteurisation. Today, Sparkenhoe stands as the sole producer of unpasteurised Red Leicester in England, a distinction of profound significance for those who understand the supremacy of raw milk cheeses.

Extended Maturation, Deepened Character

Paxton & Whitfield recognises the extraordinary potential that extends beyond the conventional maturation timeline. Their exclusive XO expression receives approximately twelve months of careful development, rather than the standard six, allowing the cheese to evolve into something altogether more refined and contemplative. This extended ageing transforms the texture into something wonderfully dense, with a slightly brittle character that speaks of complexity and depth. The flavour profile deepens considerably: those initial impressions of roasted nuts and caramel emerge with considerably greater nuance and authority, creating a cheese of genuine sophistication.

The unmistakable burnt orange hue that characterises Red Leicester derives from annatto, a natural colouring agent sourced from the reddish seeds of the achiote tree, native to the tropical regions of Central and South America. Cheesemakers have employed annatto for centuries, recognising its capacity to impart the rich golden appearance historically associated with summer milk from pasture grazed herds. Though annatto contributes little to flavour itself, it has become so integral to Red Leicester’s identity that the cheese appears incomplete without it.

A Cheese of Remarkable Presence

Paxton & Whitfield serves their Sparkenhoe Red Leicester XO alongside charcoal crackers and black garlic pickle, a pairing that celebrates the cheese’s distinguished character whilst introducing complementary notes of umami and gentle piquancy. This is a cheese that commands attention on any distinguished cheese board, its generous colour and notable presence marking it as something altogether exceptional.

For those who appreciate the rarer expressions of English cheesemaking and recognise the value inherent in cheeses of genuine provenance and patient craftsmanship, Sparkenhoe Red Leicester XO represents an opportunity to engage with cheese history in its most elegant contemporary form.

Imagery courtesy of Paxton & Whitfield (@paxtonscheese).