Anna Sui revives Ellen Berkenblit’s nineties Y2K tops
The designer reimagines cult creations from the era, collaborating with the original visionary behind those defining silhouettes. Lace, ruching and that particular languid sensuality return.
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Anna Sui has turned to the archive for a collaboration that channels pure nineties nostalgia, working with Ellen Berkenblit to bring forward her iconic tops from an era when minimalism seemed a foreign concept and excess was a form of poetry. These were the pieces that defined a moment: the lace, the ruching, the intricate layering that made even a simple camisole feel like an occasion.
The collection speaks to Sui’s own design sensibility, that particular fluency with feminine silhouette and decorative detail that has always animated her work. A cream lace collared piece, its Peter Pan collar rendered in delicate floral embroidery, sits atop a ruched chocolate brown bodice that nips the waist with precision. Elsewhere, a black lace camisole edges toward something more suggestive, its ruffled neckline and sheer ruched panels catching light in all the right places. These are clothes that demand to be worn with intention, that ask something of the body and reward it with undeniable charm.

What makes the collaboration resonate now is its honesty about desire and youth. Berkenblit’s original designs understood that vulnerability and confidence need not be opposing forces; they can coexist in a single garment, in the tension between what conceals and what reveals. Sui has always known this too, and her interpretation brings contemporary construction to designs that never really lost their power.
The pieces are available through Anna Sui’s channels now, ready to dress a new generation who recognizes that the best ideas rarely stay buried.
Imagery courtesy of Anna Sui (@annasui).
