Apron Vienna captures autumn’s depth in delicate porcini ravioli

Apron Vienna’s new porcini course distils the quieter pleasures of autumn into a single, elegantly composed plate. Tender porcini ravioli form the quiet centre of the dish, their delicate pasta skin yielding to reveal the earthiness of the mushroom within. The kitchen has paired this with the nutty sweetness of maroni, those prized European chestnuts, and the sharp counterpoint of pickled grapes, their acidity cutting through the richness with precision.

Celeriac purée provides a pale, grounding element, its subtle celery notes anchoring the composition. The ravioli themselves have been pickled in sturm, that semi fermented grape juice that brings a distinctive fermented complexity to the porcini, deepening and complicating what might otherwise be a straightforward autumn vegetable. This same sturm appears again in the mushroom velouté that cradles the other elements, its creamy texture and faintly tannic character binding the plate together with quiet authority.

What emerges is a study in contrast and harmony: tender against crisp, earthy against bright, rich against acid. The presentation on black marble bowls, lined with pale foam and scattered with herbs, frames each element with gallery like precision. It is the kind of cooking that rewards attention, where each component justifies its presence and the whole exceeds its parts.

Imagery courtesy of Apron Vienna (@apronvienna).