Jean Paul Gaultier’s Hermès vision returns to auction

The intersection of two design visionaries comes into focus this November when Christie's Asia offers a carefully assembled selection of handbags from Jean Paul Gaultier's years as creative director of Hermès. The collection, drawn largely from the holdings of collector Susan Casden, distils a transformative chapter in the French house's history through objects of singular rarity and craft.

Rarities from a defining era

Among the handbags on offer stands a Matte Marron Niloticus Crocodile Hornback Retourné Kelly 32, one of only two known examples in existence. This piece first appeared on the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2004 runway, a moment when Gaultier's bold aesthetic was reshaping the house's vocabulary. The crocodile skin, worked in the Hornback construction, speaks to the precision required of Hermès artisans even as the designer pushed the boundaries of what the Kelly could become.

Equally distinctive is a Safari Leopard Print Pony Hair Shoulder Birkin 42, believed to be unique. The print alone signals Gaultier's willingness to introduce pattern and movement into silhouettes traditionally defined by restraint and simplicity. A third significant work, an Ébène Evercalf Leather and Feathers Sellier Kelly 25, similarly emerges from Gaultier's tenure, when unconventional materials and textural innovation began to coexist with Hermès' classical lineage.

Exhibition and sale details

The collection will be viewable during two exhibition periods before the auction. Previews take place in Shanghai from 9 to 13 November at 4/F, Bund One, followed by viewings in Hong Kong at The Henderson from 18 to 23 November. The live auction of Handbags & Accessories is scheduled for 23 November.

For collectors and students of fashion history, this sale represents an opportunity to acquire pieces that embody a specific moment when Hermès' design language was being reimagined by one of the late twentieth century's most inventive minds. Each handbag carries not only the technical mastery Hermès is known for, but also the creative risk that defined Gaultier's approach to the house during his time as creative director.

Previews are held in Shanghai (9–13 November) and Hong Kong (18–23 November), with the live auction on 23 November.

Key Facts

• Highlight lot: Matte Marron Niloticus Crocodile Hornback Retourné Kelly 32, one of two known examples, Hermès Autumn/Winter 2004
• Notable piece: Safari Leopard Print Pony Hair Shoulder Birkin 42, believed to be unique
• Additional highlight: Ébène Evercalf Leather and Feathers Sellier Kelly 25
• Provenance: Collection of Susan Casden
• Shanghai preview: 9–13 November, 4/F Bund One
• Hong Kong preview: 18–23 November, The Henderson

The Simply Luxury View

For collectors of contemporary design and fashion history, this sale illuminates a pivotal moment when two distinct design philosophies converged. Gaultier's tenure at Hermès remains one of the most studied periods in the house's modern history, a time when the designer's theatrical sensibility and material innovation tested and ultimately expanded what Hermès could be. These handbags are not merely objects; they are documents of a specific creative dialogue.

The provenance from Susan Casden's collection, a gathering known for its intelligence and discernment, adds scholarly weight to the offering. That the rarest pieces among them are virtually unique or exist in only two known examples elevates their significance beyond conventional fashion collecting into the realm of cultural artefact.

Official brand website: christies.com

Imagery is used for editorial purposes. All rights remain with the respective owners, photographers and licensors.

Imagery courtesy of Christie's Asia (@christiesasia).