Lemaire’s autumn winter 2026: metamorphosis through fabric and form
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran channel theatrical illusion and Eastern influences in a collection that dissolves the boundary between reality and dreamscape. Lacquered denims mimic leather, crushed velvets shimmer like metal, and surrealist accessories conceal functional secrets.
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For Autumn/Winter 2026, Lemaire transcends the traditional runway, dissolving the boundary between fashion and theatre through living tableaux created in poetic partnership with Nathalie Béasse. The film, captured by photographer Tobias Blickle, unfolds as a series of suspended moments where silhouette, shadow and stillness become the language of the clothes themselves.
The collection utilises optical illusions: lacquered denim that mimics leather and crushed velvets that shimmer like metal, alongside surrealist accessories that hide functional secrets. These sleights of hand transform the familiar into the uncanny, inviting the eye to linger and question what it sees. Cotton twill and shiny leather coexist; sharp tailoring sits beside domestic comfort; structured Western archetypes blur into fluid Eastern silhouettes.
The women’s collection celebrates a moonlit metamorphosis, whilst the men’s grounds an ethereal vision in a fusion of Western archetypes and Eastern suppleness, pairing sharp tailoring with domestic slippers and pops of neon amber or mint green. The result achieves a rare harmony between high sophistication and intimate warmth.
A collaboration with Roland Topor’s archive, ‘Je dors beaucoup’ (‘I Sleep a Lot’), continues through November 2026, bringing the surrealist painter’s lucid dreamscapes into dialogue with Lemaire’s vision. Every piece carries the signature precision of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran’s talent for reinventing wardrobe staples whilst shaping silhouettes that feel modern and in the zeitgeist.
Imagery courtesy of Lemaire (@lemaire).