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Roksanda Ilincic’s sculptural black gown commands the New York premiere

For the NYC premiere of All's Fair Season Two, Roksanda Ilincic delivers a masterclass in dramatic restraint: a strapless velvet bodice crowned with a knife edged off shoulder collar, anchored by a crocodile embossed corset and a sweeping skirt of pleated lacquered fabric.

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Roksanda Ilincic’s SS27 collection speaks in the language of architectural drama, and Look 30 proves why the Serbian designer commands such reverence in the realm of red carpet dressing. The gown that graced the New York premiere of All’s Fair Season Two is an essay in controlled excess, where every element serves a purpose as precise as it is visually commanding.

The silhouette unfolds with deliberate intention. A fitted strapless bodice in black velvet rises cleanly from the body, topped by a sculptural off shoulder collar that peaks sharply above the collarbone, creating an almost architectural frame for the face and shoulders. Below, a structured corset in crocodile embossed leather cinches the waist with commanding presence, its textured surface catching light and shadow in equal measure. The skirt billows outward in panels of pleated lacquered fabric, each fold catching dimension as it falls toward the floor, the glossy surface creating an interplay between matte velvet and high shine that defines the collection’s sensibility.

Model walks in the black Roksanda Ilincic SS27 gown across a wooden deck in daylight, the pleated skirt swinging with movement, coastal landscape visible behind

What makes Ilincic’s work particularly potent is her refusal to clutter. The colour palette remains singular and absolute: black in all its variations and depths, allowing the silhouette itself to become the narrative. The fabric play between soft velvet, structured croc and lacquered pleats tells the story of contemporary femininity reimagined through craft and precision.

Styling by Karla Welch kept the focus precisely where it belonged, letting Ilincic’s architectural vision command the room entirely.

Imagery courtesy of Roksanda Ilincic (@roksandailincic).

Model walks in the black Roksanda Ilincic SS27 gown across a wooden deck in daylight, the pleated skirt swinging with movement, coastal landscape visible behind

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