Hawksmoor reveals the secret to its legendary creamed potato

Hawksmoor’s creamed potato mash arrives at the table as something close to an institution: buttery, silken, luxuriously yielding on the spoon. The dish is deceptively simple, yet it demands precision at every step, from the choice of potato through to the crucial final fold that transforms boiling butter and double cream into something approaching velvet.

The foundation rests on Red Désirée potatoes, though Maris Piper serve equally well. Peeled and cut into even chunks, they go into cold water rather than boiling; start them in heat and the exterior softens while the interior remains obstinate. Once the water reaches a boil, salt generously and simmer until the potatoes yield completely to the knife, tender and yielding through. Drain thoroughly and return the pot to low heat for a minute or two to steam away any lingering moisture, which would otherwise dilute the final texture.

Mash while the potatoes remain hot, though here is where discipline becomes essential. The defining moment arrives with what Hawksmoor calls the naughty bit: two hundred and fifty grams of butter and two hundred millilitres of double cream, boiled together until they merge into a single silken emulsion. Fold this through the mashed potatoes with a measured hand. The temptation is to work the mixture thoroughly, yet overworking yields something closer to glue than the silk that defines the dish.

Serve it plainly, letting the potato and the butter speak, or accompany it with gravy from the pan or a slice of Tunworth soft cheese, whose yielding paste and mushroomy earthiness complement the richness without overwhelming it. This is cooking that knows its own value, asking only that technique and ingredient quality meet with precision and restraint.

Imagery courtesy of Hawksmoor (@hawksmoorrestaurants).