Saké and the sea: L’Abysse refines plankton in a glass

A pale pour of saké catches the light against pale marble, and at that moment, the simplicity of the pairing speaks volumes. L’Abysse Monte Carlo, under the direction of Yannick Alleno, has begun serving the Harima Ji Junmai Ginjo from Fukunishiki Brewery with two meticulously crafted amuse bouches that draw their inspiration and flavour from plankton. The gesture feels deliberate, almost philosophical: a toast to the ocean’s smallest, most essential life form.

The Junmai Ginjo style denotes a saké made from rice that has been polished to reveal at least 50 per cent of the grain’s heart. The resulting liquid carries a crystalline delicacy, with aromatic notes that drift toward flowers and subtle fruit, yet here it serves a different purpose entirely. Paired alongside dishes that capture the briny essence and mineral character of plankton, the saké transforms into something more complex than either element alone. The freshness it brings amplifies the umami depths in each bite, while its own gentle alcohol warming finds counterpoint in the iodised, oceanic notes of the preparations themselves.

This is the refinement that distinguishes contemporary Japanese cuisine at its finest. Rather than announce the pairing with flourish, L’Abysse allows it to unfold as a quiet conversation between the kitchen and the cellar. The two amuse bouches sit on white ceramic, their hues suggesting the sea itself, garnished with herbs and presented with the restraint that marks serious cooking. Each spoonful followed by a sip becomes an exploration of salinity, umami and the subtle minerality that connects all three elements: the saké, the plankton, and the water that made both possible.

Imagery courtesy of L'Abysse Monte-Carlo (@labysse_montecarlo).