Chemena Kamali strips Chloé to its essentials for Spring 2027
The creative director's second collection for the house moves away from maximalism into a world of pared back silhouettes, textural play and a new kind of refinement.
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Chemena Kamali’s second collection as creative director of Chloé, Spring 2027, exchanges the house’s decorative abundance for pared silhouettes and textural precision. The palette narrows to cream, blush and pale sand: colours that seem to recede rather than declare themselves. Where her debut showed the house at its most exuberant, this collection asks what happens when you remove the obvious and build instead from exact proportion and material choice.
A tank top in soft jersey sits square shouldered and fitted, its hem trimmed with hand-cut silk petals that respond to movement. A skirt follows in the same palette, its simplicity interrupted by ruffled details at the waist that suggest texture rather than impose it. Nothing reads accidental. Raw silk finishes the necklines. Seams are placed to catch light at particular angles. Proportions sit just slightly askew of convention, creating a sense of considered ease. This is restraint that reveals itself only when you look.
Kamali brought this sensibility to Chloé from Monse, the New York label she co-founded with Bobby Kolade. There, she built a reputation for clothes that appeared deceptively simple but demanded close attention: construction mattered, the hand of the fabric mattered, the refusal to overdecorate mattered most. When she moved to the French house, the challenge was whether that aesthetic could coexist with Chloé’s DNA, rooted in romantic excess and generous proportion. Her first collection proved it could. Spring 2027 tips the balance decisively toward editing: fewer pieces, fewer colours, fewer competing ideas, each garment existing as a complete thought.
The materials cost more because they cost more. Hand-cut silk petals sewn to hemlines. Jersey that moves like water. Raw silk used where many houses would default to finished seams. There is no economy in these choices, no shortcut, no compromise. The direction asks the wearer to slow down and understand that a piece’s worth lives not in visual volume but in what happens when you wear it, move in it, live with it over time.
Kamali joins a lineage of creative directors who shaped Chloé’s direction from founder Gaby Aghion forward, each understanding that French luxury operates somewhere between formality and rebellion. Her interpretation of that legacy is one where beauty emerges from what is not there. Spring 2027 is available from Chloé boutiques and chloe.com.
The materials tell their own story. Silk petals hand-cut and sewn to a hemline. Jersey so soft it moves like water. Raw silk finishes that suggest imperfection as a form of honesty. These are materials that cost more because they cost more: there is no economy in them, no short cut, no compromise. Kamali’s direction asks the wearer to slow down, to notice, to understand that a piece’s worth is not measured in visual volume but in what happens when you wear it, move in it, live with it.
Spring 2027 is available now in Chloé boutiques and on Chloe.com. The collection represents a clearer statement of Kamali’s vision for the house: one where luxury becomes visible not through addition but through the precision of what remains.
em>Imagery courtesy of Chloé (@chloe).