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Junya Watanabe Man explores tailoring and restraint for autumn

The designer's autumn and winter collection arrives at Dover Street Market, balancing architectural precision with the ease of sportswear.

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Black and white photograph of a model in a charcoal wool double breasted blazer with cream striping at the cuffs and collar, worn with a white shirt, seated on a white stool
Dover Street Market (@doverstreetmarketlondon)

Junya Watanabe Man’s autumn and winter collection carries the designer’s signature tension between structure and fluidity, between the rigour of tailoring and the casual vocabulary of sportswear. Double breasted blazers, their shoulders cut with architectural precision, sit over simple white shirts and shorts finished in pale linen. Oversized proportions move through the lineup with an athlete’s ease; a charcoal wool coat drapes generously, its collar wide and its cuffs detailed with fine striping in cream and white.

Black and white photograph of a model standing in a black double breasted wool coat with cream and white striped detailing on the sleeves, worn over a white shirt and pale linen shorts, finished with black socks and shoes

The palette is restrained: black, charcoal, cream and white dominate throughout, punctuated by small graphic details, star emblems and tonal stripes that read as coded references rather than ornament. These are garments built on proportion and the relationship between fabric and form, each piece designed to move with the body rather than constrain it. The white cotton shirts worn beneath the blazers carry a precision that speaks to Watanabe’s obsessive attention to cut and finish.

The collection is available at Dover Street Market in London and through the Dover Street Market online shop, where the full range can be explored in detail.

Imagery courtesy of Dover Street Market (@doverstreetmarketlondon).

Black and white photograph of a model standing in a black double breasted wool coat with cream and white striped detailing on the sleeves, worn over a white shirt and pale linen shorts, finished with black socks and shoes

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